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If you send current through the coil, a magnetic force is created, which pulls on the steel paddle causing it to move (flip) and touch the copper paddle - as if you flipped a light switch.
It is important to note the coil is physically isolated from the paddles.
(You're right, the extension cord wires are not soldered to the relay board in this picture - please make believe).
If you align the hooks of the wires under the screws correctly, as you tighten the screws, the hook of the wire will be 'sucked' into the tightening screw. Now lower the relay into the enclosure and feed the control wires (red, yellow, and black) out one corner of the housing.Once you have everything lowered into place, screw the outlet onto the enclosure, and the face plate onto the enclosure. In the above picture, I have a fairly dirty breadboard.All that I am actually using on the bread board is 5V and GND - ignore all the other parts as they are not doing anything.What this means is if your ‘project’ suddenly pulls 50A because the microwave turned on, the GFCI will not trip off. This is more than a GPIO pin can handle (20m A by default) so we use NPN transistor as a controllable connection to ground.But it you accidentally touch the wrong exposed wire, the GFCI This board contains the relay, transistor, and activation LED. A control pin controls whether the relay is ‘closed’ (allows high power to flow) or ‘open’ (paddle’s default state of disconnected). The NPN transistor can handle up to a 200m A which is more than the coil (80m A) and the LED (20m A) combined.